Lesson 2 Notes
Wei-Hwa Huang, whuang@google.com
Contents
Why bridge bidding is weird
Recap on bridge scoring
Hand Evaluation
Hand Shapes
The Importance of a Trump Fit
Stoppers
The Right Questions to Ask
Diversion: Competitive Bidding
Types of Bids
Opening Bids
Responding to a 1-level opening
Once a fit is found
Stayman
Yellow Card Conventions
Why Bidding is weird and hard to learn
... because it's all about getting the best score, and bridge scoring is weird.
Myth: Bid the highest contract you can make.
Bridge scoring (recap)
1♣ 1♦ 1♥ 1♠ 1NT -- cheapest bids
2♣ 2♦ 2♥ 2♠ 2NT
+---+
3♣ 3♦ 3♥ 3♠|3NT|
+-----+---+
4♣ 4♦|4♥ 4♠|4NT
+-----+-----+
|5♣ 5♦|5♥ 5♠ 5NT
+-----+
6♣ 6♦ 6♥ 6♠ 6NT -- small slams
7♣ 7♦ 7♥ 7♠ 7NT -- large slams
3NT, 4&spades, 4&hearts, 5&diamonds, 5&clubs are all game contracts -- a big 300/500 point bonus is given for making these contracts.
6- and 7-level contracts give a "slam bonus"
There is no scoring advantage to any of the other contracts!
Therefore, game bids are (almost) always "sign-offs" -- and almost
nothing else is.
Hand Evaluation
It's useful to have a numerical evaluation of the hand.
What wins tricks?
Example:
♠ xxx
♥ x
♦ KQxxx
♣ KQxx
♠ xxx ♠ xx
♥ QJTx ♥ xxxxx
♦ JTxx ♦ Ax
♣ xx ♣ AJTx
♠ AKQxx
♥ AKx
♦ xx
♣ xxx
High Card Points (HCP)
A: 4 points
K: 3 points
Q: 2 points
J: 1 point
Distribution Points
Experts don't count these! Why?
Three ways:
- Length: 1 point for every card more than 4th in a suit.
- Shortness: doubleton = 1 point; singleton = 2 points; void = 3 points.
- Support shortness: doubleton = 1 point; singleton = 3 points; void = 5 points.
Be wary of distribution points before a fit is found.
Numbers to remember
HCP in the deck: 40
HCPs per trick: 3
HCPs needed to make 3NT (9 tricks): "good" 25+
Points needed to make 4♠♥ (10 tricks) : 26
Points needed to make 5♣♦ (11 tricks) : 29
Points needed to make small slam (12 tricks) : 33
Points needed to make grand slam (13 tricks) : 37
Moral: games in 5♣♦ are rarely useful!
Hand Shapes
- Balanced: 5332, 4432, 4333 (good for NT bidding)
- Semi-balanced: 5422, 6322
- Semi-balanced borderline two-suiter: 5422
- Semi-balanced one-suiter: 6322
- Not Balanced: Any singleton or void, any 7-card suit
- Three-suiter: 5440, 4441 (hard to bid well)
- Borderline two-suiter: 5431, 6430, 6421, 7510
- Two-suiter: 5530, 5521, 6520, 6511, 6610, 7600
- Single-suiter: 6331, 7420, 7411, 7330, 7321, any 8-card suit (good for preemptive bidding)
Trump Fit
7-card fit example:
AKQJx
xxxx xx
xx
8-card fit example:
AKQJx
xxx xx
xxx
Moral: 8-card fits are comfortable; 7-card fits aren't!
Stoppers
When playing NT, it's important to make sure opponents don't run away with a suit.
Guaranteed Stoppers
A
KQ
QJT
JT98
Likely Stoppers
Kxx
QJx
Jxxx
any five-card suit
Half Stoppers
Kx
Qxx
any four-card suit
Rule of thumb: if someone bids a suit, they probably have a stopper!
The Right Questions
Primary Questions:
- A. Do we have an 8-card fit in a major suit?
- B. Do we have enough points for game?
Secondary Questions:
- C. Do we have an 8-card fit in a minor suit?
- D. Do we have stoppers in every suit?
- E. Do we have enough power (points) for slam?
- F. How many controls do we have?
(E and F are outside the scope of this lesson.)
Game contract pre-requisites
| A | B | C | D |
| 3NT | - | Yes | - | Yes |
| 4♥♠ | Yes | Yes | - | - |
| 5♣♦ | No | Yes | Yes | - |
Table by points/fit
|
Fit? |
Fit in ♥♠ |
Fit in ♣♦ |
No fit |
| Points? |
Stoppers? |
No |
Yes |
Yes |
No |
| less than 26 |
|
partial in the fit suit
| partial in a 7-card fit, or in NT
|
| 26 to 28 |
|
4♥♠ |
"Ick!" |
3NT |
"Ick!" |
| 29 to 32 |
|
5♣♦ |
not possible |
"Ick!": Gamble in 3NT, or settle for a partial.
"The Curse of 2NT"
Diversion: Competitive Bidding
In competitive bidding, fit is the only thing that matters! (Kinda)
Rule of thumb: subtract 6 from your fit, and bid to that level. Adjust based
on opponents' fit and vulnerability. (If you don't know their fit, assume 8.)
| Your Fit / Their Fit |
7 |
8 |
9 |
10 |
11 |
| 7 (vul) | pass | 1-level | 1-level | 2-level | 2-level |
| 7 (n-vul) | 1-level | 1-level | 2-level | 2-level | 3-level |
| 8 (vul) | 1-level | 2-level | 2-level | 3-level | 3-level |
| 8 (n-vul) | 2-level | 2-level | 3-level | 3-level | 4-level |
| 9 (vul) | 2-level | 3-level | 3-level | 4-level | 4-level |
| 9 (n-vul) | 3-level | 3-level | 4-level | 4-level | 5-level |
| 10 (vul) | 3-level | 4-level | 4-level | 5-level | 5-level |
| 10 (n-vul) | 4-level | 4-level | 5-level | 5-level | 6-level |
| 11 (vul) | 4-level | 5-level | 5-level | 6-level | 6-level |
| 11 (n-vul) | 5-level | 5-level | 6-level | 6-level | 7-level |
Bid Types
Usually you'll know one of three things:
We definitely don't have game.
We might have game.
We definitely have game.
The eight types of bids
Opening: "Partner, I've got a better than average hand and I think our side is more likely to make game than the opponents. I've got a wide range of possible hands, so unless you've got nothing you should probably say something."
Opening limited: "Partner, I've got a very specific sort of hand and this bid describes it. Unless you need more details, I don't expect to bid again."
Sign-off: "Partner, I expect you to pass this bid. This is probably the best contract for us."
Nonforcing: "Partner, I've said all I can. Pass unless you really feel that you have something more to say."
Invitational: "Partner, I think we're close to game -- we're at most one trick short. If you're at the high-end of your range, go for it; otherwise, don't bother."
Forcing for one round: "Partner, I need more information from you, so please don't pass. Game is definitely a potential."
Game-forcing: "Partner, we definitely have game, but slam is also possible. Don't pass until we're at least at a game, and let's use this bidding room to see if we have enough for slam."
Pre-emptive: "Partner, I don't expect to make this bid, but I suspect our opponents have a game. I have a one-suited hand and intend to take up their bidding space so they can't find their game. If you have support for my suit, please get in their way further."
Penalty Double: "Partner, I think the opponents have bid too high and are going to go down no matter what contract they'll end up in. Let's get some extra points."
Rules of thumb for which bids are which
Opening: 1-level opening bids, takeout double (doubling before partner has bid anything), 2&clubs opening.
Opening limited: NT opening bids, 2♦♥♠ openings ("weak twos").
Sign-off: Game-level bids.
Nonforcing: Rebid of own suit, rebid of partner's suit, rebid of 1NT.
Invitational: Jump-raise of partner's suit, 2NT, 3-level bids in a suit where a fit is found.
Forcing for one round: Bid of a new suit; bid of an opponent's suit ("cue bid"), negative double (doubling an opponent's 1 or 2-level bid when partner has already bid).
Game-forcing: Jump in a new suit (in a non-competitive auction).
Pre-emptive: "weak twos", opening bids of 3 or 4 in any suit, jump bids in any competitive auction.
Penalty Double: Doubling NT, doubling any non-pre-empt of 3 or higher.
Opening bids
- 1NT: 15-17 HCP, balanced hand. "strong no trump"
- 1♠: 13+ points, 5+ spades.
- 1♥: 13+ points, 5+ hearts.
- 1♦: 13+ points, 4+ diamonds.
- 1♣: 13+ points, 3+ clubs.
- 2NT: 20-21 HCP, balanced hand.
- 2♠: 6+ spades (KQxxxx or better), 5-11 HCP. "weak two"
- 2♥: 6+ hearts (KQxxxx or better), 5-11 HCP. "weak two"
- 2♦: 6+ diamonds (KQxxxx or better), 5-11 HCP. "weak two"
- 2♣: 22+ balanced OR 9+ tricks. "strong two clubs"
Strategy for Opener: balanced hands
- 0-11 HCP: Pass.
- 12-14 HCP: Open 1 of a suit, planning to rebid 1NT (nonforcing).
- 15-17 HCP: Open 1NT.
- 18-19 HCP: Open 1 of a suit, planning to rebid 2NT (nonforcing).
- 20-21 HCP: Open 2NT.
- 22-24 HCP: Open 2♣, planning to rebid 2NT.
- 25-26 HCP: Open 3NT.
- 27+ HCP: Open 2♣, planning to rebid 3NT.
Strategy for Opener: single-suited hand
- 0-5 points: Pass.
- 6-12 points: Open a "weak two" if the conditions are fulfilled; else pass.
- 13-15 points: Open 1 in your suit, planning to rebid at 2-level (nonforcing).
- 16-18 points: Open 1 in your suit, planning to rebid at 3-level (invitational)
- 19+ points, <9 tricks: Open 1 in your suit, planning to rebid at 4-level (game-forcing). This is rather rare.
- 9+ tricks: Open 2♣, planning to rebid your suit.
Strategy for Opener: two-suited hands
- 0-12 points: pass.
- 13-15 points: Open 1 in your longer suit (the higher one if of equal length). If partner doesn't bid either of your suits, you plan to bid the other suit without "reversing" (nonforcing).
- 16-18 points: Open 1 in your longer suit (the lower one if of equal length). If partner doesn't bid either of your suits, you plan to bid the other suit with "reversing" (forcing).
- 19+ points, <9 tricks: Open 1 in your longer suit, planning to jump in the other suit.
- 9+ tricks: Open 2♣.
What's a "reverse"?
A reverse is when you bids a nonjump new suit that is higher than the first suit you bid. Examples:
1♣ 1♠
2♦
1♣ 1NT
2♦
1♠ 2♥
3♦
The diamond bids are reverses. You can think of it this way: "My partner had a chance to bid diamonds but he didn't. But I'm going to show my diamonds anyway. To be bold enough to do this, I need to have a good hand."
This is not a reverse:
1♦ 1♥
1♠
Partner didn't jump over spades, so that's not a reverse.
Strategy for Opener: three-suited hands
- 0-12 points: pass.
- 13+ points: Open 1 in your longest suit (if 4441, bid the lower minor). You expect to find a fit with partner unless he has a single-suiter.
Note that three-suited hands are often difficult to bid; that's why experts sometimes use special conventions to handle them.
Responding to a 1-level opening
General approach:
- With < 6 points, even if partner has a maximum of 20, you're unlikely to find a game. Pass... unless you've found a 10-card fit, in which case make a pre-emptive bid by raising partner to the 4-level.
- If you've found a major suit fit, great! Concentrate on getting to the right level -- partial, game, or slam?
- Since opener can't open 4-card majors, you could be missing a 4-4 fit. Bid 4-card suits "up the line" at the 1-level to make sure to find these fits. Often this can be more important than showing a 6-card minor.
- A jump bid is game-forcing, but doesn't agree on a suit.
- A new suit bid at the 2-level shows 5+ cards in the suit, invitational strength or more (11+ points) and is forcing. With fewer points, bid 1NT, which doesn't have to promise stoppers in all suits.
Once a suit fit is found
Here's what these bids tend to mean:
- Pass: "Partner, I'm sure we don't have enough points for game."
- 3 of the suit: Invitational.
- Game in the suit: Sign-off.
- 2NT: Invitational to 3NT. Should show stoppers in the other suits.
- 3NT: Sign-off. (Rarely, can be asking partner to choose between
3NT and game in the suit.)
Your first convention: Stayman
Stayman is an artificial response of 2♣ to a 1NT opening. It is "artificial" because it says nothing about clubs. Instead, it is an attempt to search for a 4-4 major suit fit. Opener's responses are:
- 2♦ "I don't have a 4-card major."
- 2♥ "I have 4 hearts and maybe 4 spades."
- 2♠ "I have 4 spades but not 4 hearts."
There are two ways to use Stayman, the "garbage" way and the normal way.
To use the "garbage" way, you should have < 8 points (i.e., no chance for game), and at least 4 cards in spades, hearts, and diamonds. You plan to pass any response opener gives, which guarantees you'll play in an 8-card fit at the 2-level.
To use the normal way, you should have 8+ points (i.e., invitational range) and at least one 4-card major. If opener shows your major, great, otherwise, invite or go to 3NT as needed.
Other Conventions on the Yellow Card
- Jacoby transfers over 1NT openings
- Jacoby 2NT over 1-of-a-major openings
- Gerber Ace-asking convention
- Blackwood Ace-asking convention
- Unusual 2NT
- Michaels Cue Bid
- Grand Slam Force